Kerfuffles with Rickshaw-wallahs
Rickshaw-wallah: “Sir? Auto sir?” Sagar: “No” R: “Auto! Auto! Sir?” S: “No, boss” R: “Taxi, Sir?” S: “Nahi, bhaiyya” (No, brother) R: “Sir?” [Khaki-uniformed Rickshaw driver shaking his head laterally with superhuman frequency] S: “No! I want to wal-NO! Why am I explaining myself to you…$*#@(&!!!!” Any composer trying to capture the aural assault of a typical Indian road would [...]
Pondicherry – A Study in Syncretization
Upon entering the Indian territory known as Pondicherry (or Pondy), one is immediately aware of a shift in form and feel. I’m reminded of the late Ustad Ali Akbar Khan’s explanation of ragas and improvisation in classical Hindustani music. He said that a raga is like a woman without jewels or ornamentation, the musician’s improvisation is what adorns the woman [...]
Guys Day Out (Tamil Edition)
“We will go to Vandalur Zoo. You are here in Chennai; it is my duty to take you. I will take you.” If Murugan, my Keralan colleague deems it, then it must be so. Several days later, I was on the back of a Honda motorcycle, leaving my pied-à-terre for a ride through the entropic roads of Chennai. One delicious [...]
Women in South India
Regal is the first word that comes to mind when I think about the women in South India. I’m not sure if it is the fresh jasmine they wear in their hair, the way they confidently hold their heads high, or their deep connection to cultural traditions. Whatever the reason(s), the outcome for me is admiration. Mom, don’t get excited, [...]
Devotion
I went to a Carnatic concert a few days ago with a young professional and aspiring Carnatic vocalist. Meeting him, and seeing some of his fellow students, unearthed a force that is constantly bubbling beneath India’s surface: devotion. Not necessarily religious devotion, but being focused on doing something. These devotees don’t have to quit their jobs or drop every alternative [...]
